PERSONAL DEBT
Personal Debt Consolidation
Cards, personal loans and buy-now-pay-later brought into one repayment, on one date, at one rate. We will also show you the part most brokers skip: what a longer term does to the total interest you pay.

- 01
Lender panel
40+
- 02
Structure
Secured or unsecured
- 03
What we show
Monthly and full-term cost
- 04
Combined experience
45+ years
- Someone paying four or more separate repayments across cards, loans and instalment plans
- A household making minimum repayments and watching balances barely move
- An owner-occupier with equity who wants to bring unsecured debt onto a mortgage
- A renter with no property who needs an unsecured consolidation loan instead
- Someone who has had a rate rise and now cannot cover everything in the same month
- A person who wants a plain answer about whether consolidating is actually worth it
How it works
Three moves, in plain words.
- 01
The honest inventory
Every debt, every limit, every rate, every repayment. We build the real total, which is often larger than the one people carry in their heads.
- 02
The comparison
What you are paying now, monthly and over the full term, against what each available structure would cost. Indicative only, but built on your actual numbers.
- 03
The recommendation, with the caveats stated
Which structure suits you, why, and what the trade-off is. If consolidation is not the right answer for you, this is where we say it.
See the real number first
What consolidation actually does
Consolidation replaces several debts with one. A lender advances an amount, the old balances are paid out, and you are left with a single loan, a single rate and a single repayment date. Nothing is forgiven and nothing disappears. The debt is restructured, not reduced.
It helps in three specific ways. The interest rate on the consolidated loan is usually lower than the rate on revolving credit. The repayment is usually lower, because the term is usually longer. And the administrative load drops from six moving parts to one, which matters more than people expect when the reason things slipped was disorganisation rather than income.
- Credit cards and store cards
- Personal loans and car loans
- Buy-now-pay-later balances
- Overdrafts and line-of-credit facilities
- Payday or short-term high-cost lending
- Tax debt, in some structures, where the borrower is self-employed
The detail
02The honest trade-off: repayment down, total interest up
+
This is the single most important thing on this page, and it is the thing most consolidation advertising leaves out. Rolling a short-term unsecured debt into a thirty-year mortgage lowers the monthly repayment. It can also increase the total interest you pay over the full term, even though the rate is lower.
The reason is time. A card balance paid off over three years accrues interest for three years. The same balance sitting inside a thirty-year mortgage accrues interest for thirty years. A much lower rate applied over a much longer period can still add up to more.
| Structure | Typical term | Monthly repayment | Total interest over the full term | Security |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Credit card, minimum repayment only | Indefinite | Lowest of all | Highest, by a wide margin | None |
| Credit card, paid off deliberately | 1–3 years | Highest | Low | None |
| Unsecured consolidation loan | 3–7 years | Moderate | Moderate | None |
| Consolidation into a mortgage, same term | Remaining mortgage term | Lower | Higher than a short loan | Property |
| Consolidation into a mortgage, split short | 3–7 years on the split | Moderate | Low | Property |
The same $40,000, on two different terms
Same money, same assumed rate, one difference. The split is finished at year five. The blended amount is still carrying about $31,000 at year ten, and it produced the smaller monthly figure every one of those months.
Illustrative projection only, using one assumed rate for both lines. Not a quote and not an offer of credit.
View as a table
| Month | On a five-year split | Blended into the mortgage term |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | $40,000 | $40,000 |
| 10 | $34,200 | $39,500 |
| 20 | $28,100 | $38,900 |
| 30 | $21,600 | $38,300 |
| 40 | $14,800 | $37,600 |
| 50 | $7,600 | $36,900 |
| 60 | $0 | $36,200 |
| 70 | $0 | $35,500 |
| 80 | $0 | $34,700 |
| 90 | $0 | $33,800 |
| 100 | $0 | $32,900 |
| 110 | $0 | $32,000 |
| 120 | $0 | $31,000 |
So the honest position is this. If lowering the monthly repayment is what stops you falling further behind, take the lower repayment and say so plainly. If you can afford more, structure the loan so you pay more, and do not let a thirty-year term quietly do the deciding.
03Secured against property, or unsecured
+
There are two routes, and which one is open to you generally comes down to whether you own property with usable equity.
Secured, against a property
The debt is absorbed into a mortgage or a new loan secured by the home or an investment property. The rate is lower, the amount available is larger, and the term is longer. The cost is real: unsecured debt becomes secured debt, and the property now stands behind money that used to be unsecured. That is a serious change and it deserves a serious conversation.
Unsecured, on income alone
A personal loan pays out the balances, with no property involved. The rate sits above a mortgage rate but usually well below a credit card rate, and the term is short enough that the debt has an actual end date. Amounts are smaller and the assessment leans harder on income stability and credit history.

| Secured | Unsecured | |
|---|---|---|
| Requires property equity | Yes | No |
| Interest rate | Lower | Higher |
| Typical term | Long | Short |
| Amount available | Larger | Smaller |
| Risk to the home | Yes | No |
| Best when | Large balances, real equity, split structure used | Moderate balances, steady income, wanting an end date |
04How to keep the benefit once you have it
+
The failure mode for consolidation is not the loan. It is the cards filling up again over the following eighteen months, leaving the household with the consolidated loan and the original debt. The fix is mechanical.
- 01Close the accounts at settlement rather than reducing the limits. A zero balance with a live limit is an invitation, and lenders assess the limit, not the balance.
- 02Cancel the buy-now-pay-later accounts, not just the current plans.
- 03Set the repayment to direct debit on the day after pay lands, not on the last day of the month.
- 04If the loan is split, set the extra repayment on the split now, while the intention is fresh.
- 05Keep one card, with a limit you could clear in a month, for genuine emergencies. Or keep none.
- 06Build a small buffer before you increase spending. The reason the cards filled the first time was usually an unfunded surprise, not extravagance.
Eighteen months on, where it held
- The consolidated accounts were closed at settlement, in writing, and the confirmations were kept
- The repayment leaves the account the day after pay arrives
- The split carries an extra repayment that was set on the day the loan funded
- A small buffer absorbs the unfunded surprises that filled the cards the first time
Where it unwound
- Limits were reduced rather than accounts closed, so the cards had somewhere to refill
- The buy-now-pay-later accounts stayed open once the current plans were cleared
- The repayment sat at the end of the month, ahead of the pay cycle rather than behind it
- The consolidated amount was left on the full mortgage term and nobody looked at it again
You are not the first, and you will be alright.
05What lenders assess
+
Consolidation applications are assessed on the same fundamentals as any other loan, with one addition: the lender wants to see that the new loan actually resolves the position rather than adding to it.
- Income, and how stable and provable it is
- Living expenses, benchmarked and verified against your statements
- Existing commitments, assessed on credit limits rather than current balances
- Repayment conduct over recent months, particularly missed payments and dishonours
- Credit file, including enquiries, defaults and any judgments
- For secured lending, the value of the property and the resulting loan-to-value ratio
- Whether every debt being consolidated is being paid out, not just some of them
- Serviceability
- The lender's own test of whether you can afford the repayment. It is more conservative than a household budget, and it is where most declines are actually decided.
- Loan split
- A separate portion inside one loan, with its own term and its own repayment. It is how you take the lower rate without buying decades of interest.
- Payout figure
- The exact amount needed to close a debt on a given date, including interest to that date and any early repayment cost. It is usually higher than the statement balance.
- Credit limit
- What you could draw, not what you owe. Lenders assess the limit, which is why an unused card still reduces what you can borrow.
- Credit enquiry
- The record left on your file each time you apply. A cluster of them in a short period reads as distress to the next assessor.
- Hardship notice
- A request to your existing lender to vary repayments while you are struggling. It is a right, it costs nothing, and it sits alongside anything a broker arranges.
06Documents to have ready
+
| Document | How many | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Payslips | Two to three recent | Income verification |
| Bank statements | Three to six months, all accounts | Expenses, conduct, undisclosed commitments |
| Credit card and loan statements | Most recent for each debt | Balances, limits, rates, payout figures |
| Buy-now-pay-later account summaries | Current | These are commitments and lenders count them |
| Photo identification | Two forms | Verification requirements |
| Rates notice and mortgage statement | If you own property | Equity position |
| Rental ledger or lease | If renting | Housing cost verification |
| Notice of assessment or tax return | If self-employed | Income verification |
Send the whole picture, including the debts you would rather not list. An assessor who finds an undisclosed account in the statements will decline a file that would otherwise have been approved with the account included.
07The process, start to finish
+
- 01
The honest inventory
Every debt, every limit, every rate, every repayment. We build the real total, which is often larger than the one people carry in their heads.
- 02
The comparison
What you are paying now, monthly and over the full term, against what each available structure would cost. Indicative only, but built on your actual numbers.
- 03
The recommendation, with the caveats stated
Which structure suits you, why, and what the trade-off is. If consolidation is not the right answer for you, this is where we say it.
- 04
Application to one lender
Documents prepared once, submitted to the lender on the panel most likely to approve your file as it actually is.
- 05
Approval, payouts and settlement
We obtain payout figures for each debt and coordinate so every account is cleared at settlement rather than left with a residual balance and a late fee.
- 06
Closing accounts and setting the rhythm
Accounts closed, direct debit set, and where a split has been used, the extra repayment set up on the day the loan funds.
08When we will tell you not to do it
+
Consolidation is a good tool for a cash flow problem. It is a poor tool for a solvency problem, and a worse one for a spending problem that has not been addressed.
- If the total debt is beyond what any realistic income could service, more borrowing only adds a creditor.
- If the debts will simply be rebuilt because nothing about the household's spending has changed.
- If putting the family home behind unsecured debt is not a risk you should be taking at this stage of life.
- If the exit costs on existing facilities outweigh the benefit for a small balance.
- If a formal option would genuinely produce a better outcome for you than another loan.
Run the numbers
See it with your own figures.
Indicative only. Change anything — the defaults are starting points, not quotes.
A starting assumption only, not a rate we are quoting. Change it to whatever you want to test.
Longer terms cut the monthly repayment and raise the total interest. Move the slider and watch both numbers.
One monthly repayment
$987
$122,500 across 4 debts, consolidated over 20 years.
- Repayments today
- $3,030
- Monthly change
- $2,043 lower
- Total balance consolidated
- $122,500
- Weighted average rate now
- 12.58%
- Consolidated rate you entered
- 7.50%
- Current path clears in
- 9 years 5 months
- Consolidated loan clears in
- 20 years
Each month
Interest, all up
Lower each month. More in total.
Spreading $122,500 across 20 years brings the repayment down, but it stretches short-term debt over a long term. On these figures you would pay roughly $66,063 more interest over the life of the loan than on your current path.
That can still be the right call when cash flow is the emergency and the alternative is a garnishee or a wind-up. It is not free, and you should hear that from us before you hear it from anyone else. A shorter term, or paying it down hard once the pressure lifts, is how you get the breathing room without the full bill.
Bring these figures to us. We will tell you which of them a lender will actually accept, what it would take to get there, and whether consolidating is the right move at all.
Talk it through with a brokerAssumptions
- Every rate shown is a figure you typed, including the four illustrative starting rows. Nothing here is a current rate, a comparison rate or a lender's product.
- The consolidated loan is treated as principal and interest at a fixed rate over the term you chose, with equal monthly repayments and no redraw, offset or repayment holiday.
- Your current debts are assumed to run at exactly the repayment you entered, at a fixed rate, with no new spending on any card, overdraft or buy-now-pay-later account.
- Total interest on the current path is the sum of what each debt would cost to clear at today's repayment. Where a repayment does not cover the interest, that balance is counted at interest-only over the consolidated term, so the figure is a floor rather than the true cost.
- No fees are included: no establishment, valuation, legal, discharge, break or ongoing fees, no lender's mortgage insurance and no broker fee. A real quote includes all of them.
- Nothing here models an ATO general interest charge remission, a payment plan variation, or the tax treatment of any interest you pay. Those are questions for your registered tax agent.
- Results are rounded. Interest is calculated monthly, so a lender using daily accrual will land on a slightly different number.

“Tell me the number. I have almost certainly seen worse.”
Dave Pham · Head Broker
FAQ
Questions people actually ask
If yours is not here, ask it. We would rather answer the awkward one early than have you find out later.
1300 015 267- Does debt consolidation actually save money? +
- It usually reduces the monthly repayment and the interest rate. Whether it reduces total interest depends on the term you choose. A shorter term saves money overall; stretching short-term debt over a thirty-year mortgage lowers the repayment but can raise the total paid. Ask for both figures before you sign.
- Will consolidating hurt my credit score? +
- There is usually a small short-term effect from the enquiry and the new account. Over time, replacing several accounts with one loan that is paid on time generally helps, because repayment history is a substantial part of how scores are built. Multiple applications in a short window are what does real damage.
- Can I consolidate without owning a home? +
- Yes. An unsecured personal loan can pay out cards and other balances with no property involved. The rate is higher than a mortgage rate but generally well below a credit card rate, and the shorter term means the debt has a real end date.
- How much debt do I need before it is worth consolidating? +
- There is no fixed floor. What matters is whether the saving and the simplification outweigh any exit costs and establishment fees. For small balances on one or two accounts, a deliberate repayment plan often beats a new loan, and we will tell you so.
- Do I have to close my credit cards? +
- Most lenders will require the consolidated accounts to be closed at settlement, and it is a sensible condition. Lenders assess your credit limits rather than your balances, so an open card with a zero balance still reduces what you can borrow next time.
- Can I include buy-now-pay-later balances? +
- Generally yes, and you should. Lenders treat these as commitments and will find them in your bank statements whether you disclose them or not. Including them produces a cleaner file and a more honest assessment.
- What if I have missed payments recently? +
- Recent arrears make a file harder but do not end it. Some lenders on our panel work specifically with impaired credit histories, and they price for it. What helps is an explanation, evidence that the cause has been addressed, and a few months of clean conduct where that is possible.
- Is consolidating into my mortgage a bad idea? +
- Not inherently. It is a bad idea when the term is left at thirty years and nobody mentions it, and a good idea when the consolidated portion is set up as a shorter split with extra repayments. The structure is what decides it, not the label.
- How long does it take? +
- An unsecured consolidation loan is often assessed within days once documents are complete. A consolidation into a mortgage runs at normal refinance timeframes, since it involves valuation and property settlement. Document readiness is the main variable in both.
- What does it cost to use a broker? +
- In most residential and personal lending, the lender pays the broker a commission, so there is no separate fee to you. Where a fee does apply, we tell you the amount before you apply, in writing. Nothing about how we are paid is intended to be a surprise.
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
Credentials
- Credit Representative 554029
- ABN 20 672 801 651
- FBAA member
- AFCA external dispute resolution
Related
Other ways we can help

Credit Card Debt Consolidation
Credit card balances stall on minimum repayments. WeL’nd compares balance transfers, personal loans and secure
Read more
Unsecured Debt Consolidation
Bring unsecured balances into one loan, secured or unsecured. WeL’nd explains what each structure costs over t
Read more
Consolidate Multiple Loans
Six repayment dates become one. WeL’nd works out what can be rolled in, what cannot, and how to keep the term
Read more
Reading
Worth understanding first

Debt Consolidation Explained
One loan pays out several others, and you are left with a single balance and a single repayment. Here is the mechanism, the arithmetic, and the point at which it stops being a good idea.
Read more
Does Debt Consolidation Hurt Your Credit Score?
Consolidating leaves three marks on an Australian credit file: an enquiry, a new account, and several closed ones. Here is what each one actually does, and how long it stays.
Read more
When Debt Consolidation Is a Bad Idea
Consolidation is a good tool used in the wrong situations more often than most brokers will admit. Here are the cases where it costs more than it saves, and what to do instead.
Read more
All of debt solutions
- ATO Debt Consolidation
- Business Debt Consolidation
- Tax Debt Refinance
- ATO Payment Plan Refinance
- Director Penalty Notice
- ATO Garnishee Notice
- BAS & GST Debt
- Payroll Tax Debt
- Superannuation Guarantee Charge
- Statutory Demand & Wind-Up
- Credit Card Debt Consolidation
- Unsecured Debt Consolidation
- Self-Employed Debt Consolidation
- Consolidate Multiple Loans
- Bad Credit Debt Consolidation
- Consolidation vs Insolvency
See the real number first
List every balance, every limit and every repayment. We will show you what one loan would look like, monthly and over the full term, before you apply for anything.
Or call us
1300 015 267Monday – Friday, 09:00 to 17:30

“Tell me the number. I have almost certainly seen worse.”
Dave Pham · Head Broker